Friday, November 28, 2008

windhoeked.

Tomorrow is the day of departure. I can't believe how quickly my time in Windhoek has flown by. I have been here for 3 and half months but, at times, it feels like moments. We'll be spending a week in Cape Town and then its back to the northern hemisphere. It all became a little more real when I realized the next time I talk to my mom it will be in person, in O'hare, in the States. Although I am looking forward to coming home, I am still terribly sad about leaving Namibia and the family I have found here.



Yesterday we celebrated Thanksgiving by cooking the meal for our staff as an appreciation dinner. The meal was incredible since everyone made their favorite dish from home. It was quite on experience to have 24 cooks in one kitchen! Thanksgiving was also a little bizarre because of how hot it was! Its summer here and the flowers, trees, and bushes are in full bloom. No crappy rain? What? Besides eating my face off for most of the day, I was able to visit my urban homestay family in Katutura one last time. It was wonderful to see them again- and the dogs had puppies!



The day was pretty perfect and reiterated how much I have come to love the people I have spent these past few months with. These people have helped me grow and learn in unfathomable ways. Although all of our experiences have shaped me into the person I am today, it was certainly the different perspectives of all of the passionate and unique individuals in the program that helped me make sense of the "big picture," and encouraged me to rise above the college student stereotypes and do something positive for the world with my life.



Back in August, I came to Namibia not knowing what to expect. Being a Chinese major and certified Chinese culture lover, I knew very little about the history and politics of Africa, let alone in Namibia specifically. I had done a bit of research prior but nothing could have prepared me. Namibia is a truly gorgeous country and it is filled with incredible and lively people. However, it is facing serious challenges.



The World Bank and IMF have declared Namibia a "middle income country" and with that declaration a lot of aid is leaving Namibia. However the GNI, which determines income level, does not take into account that Namibia has the highest income inequality in the world. The rich are monster rich while 40% of the people can not meet their basic needs every month. The poverty and the wealth stagger you equally.



Development is slow and politics has become a dirty word. The ruling party, SWAPO, has complete control over the country. There is no clear or strong opposition party and the people are very concerned about this. However, SWAPO was Namibia's liberator and the people vote based on history and not issues. It is the failure to address issues that will cripple this fragile democracy. Namibia needs a strong opposition party to ensure issues are addressed.



The history of Namibia is violent and holds heavy chains in the ideologies of people today. The people were oppressed for over a century and Namibia is just beginning to recover from Apartheid. Namibia has a weak civil society, with its citizens being severely uneducated about their rights. However, the hope and intelligence is present to ensure its triumph as a nation. The country is only 18 years old and has done well for its self since Independence.



Today, I walked through downtown Windhoek for the last time and, as always, forgot I was in Africa. It is a beautiful city with all the modern conveniences. But, 10 minutes outside the city center people live in tin shacks and scramble for water. As easy as it is for me to accuse this of being a problem solely in Africa, it would be ignorant of me to ignore the realities of similar living styles in my own country.



If I have learned anything this semester it is that nothing is simple. Development and democracy are complex issues that can not be prescribed but have to be experimented with and studied from every angle.



Namibia has changed me in ways I can not even begin to describe. I have seen what poverty and complete destitution looks like. I have seen children suffering and dying from HIV/AIDS. I witnessed democracy in action. I have seen communities striving to do better, with what little they have. I have seen people working tirelessly to protect their democracy and their way of life. I have seen people find hope in the face of despair and to live off of nothing. I have been in awe of the spirit of this nation. The philosophy of ubuntu (I am because you are) resonates in every aspect of daily life. People matter here. Perhaps that is the greatest lesson I have learned: the importance of the individual and relationships you cultivate with them.


A speaker from earlier on this semester told us that "Each time you travel, you leave a little bit of your heart everywhere you go." I am beginning to wonder how many more places I can give my heart to. Maybe I'll just have to come back?

Sunday, November 23, 2008

a weema whop a weema whop

my last sunday in windhoek. and so the final week begins!

last week, a friend of one of the students who lives in johannesburg came to visit us for a week. his name was rezaan and he was awesome, very lively and brought alot of fun to the group. it worked nicely with all of our classes coming to an end and not too much homework to finish it off. we did alot of fun tourist-y things :) some went to the local brewery and to dinner in the "central park" of windhoek, zoo park. my favorite of all was paintballing -- i haven't played since camp eons ago and it definitely showed. i sucked. but i did hit rezaan once and brett once, and i did get hit plenty of times including on my mouth which was awesome and not painful at all. :)

we went to a craft market known as "penduka" that works with women who have tuberculosis and gives them a source of work and income. they made really beautiful crafts, lots of tapestries and recycled jewelery. i bought some beads that were made of old windhoek lager bottles. i am excited to make some of my own bracelets and earrings with them.

me and some friends went on an adventure to find this restaurant called "fresh and wild." we kept thinking we were lost on the way there because it was in a part of windhoek we were unfamiliar with and it was quite a hike. it all worked out though :) and lunch was positively deliciousss!!

we also went karaoking on thursday night at a bar called "dylans." i was excited to see some old faces from the night life around windhoek there again- it was like fate, but better! having native namibian friends (even if they're afrikaaner) is definitely a bonus. it makes it even harder to leave though. i went out with these friends on saturday night, we got milkshakes and had a bonfire in klein. their houses are SO BIG. with grass and lots of trophies from past hunting trips (including a wildebeest, which naturally i scoffed at. you killed mufasa you jerks).

friday night we went to a rastafarian party at the college of arts. it was such a unique and cool experience! i've never really hung out with rastas before but i definitely have a better appreciation of their culture now, and i'm hoping to look more into it because their life and love philosophies seem right on cue.

we of course have eaten at the blue olive again and have gone to the farmers market and single quarters in katutura- me and rachel and cameron are trying to do research for our final project, which highlights the idea of "home" and what it means to people in windhoek. its been very interesting and hilarious, i particularly loved moses who said he would hire me to work for his electrition company and randy the security guard at the box.

i think i want to get my hair braided this week.

mom i got my nose pierced i'm sorry.

i finally finished most of my shopping!

6 days til cape town, 15 til chi-town.

Monday, November 17, 2008

you can't just go around asking people why they're white

another fantastic week around these parts. considering i only have a few more precious weeks here in namibia, i have been going out to different places as much as i can in the hopes of squeezing in as much of windhoek as i can.

1. sushi and such (i need to go to japan)
2. wine bar (i'm not sure why i think i'll like wine every time i try it. however, the place was so romantic, with an outdoor terrace looking out over windhoek. low lighting and comfy seating. and the cheese platter = delicious)
3. the blue olive (hummus and organic and free range and fresh and awesome. went there twice in one week. the second time i ate a cookie in the shape of an owl. oh and a slice of cheesecake, one that we initially bought for a friend... but after waiting for the bill and staring at it, we all decided to grab our forks and dive in).
4. joe's beerhouse (rounds 2 and 3. a "tourist must." i like it because i consistently get free drinks. hehehe.)
5. the biomarket/farmers market (i LOVE farmers markets, and this one was no different- save for it was in a very german part of town and pretty much everyone there was white. we bought fresh pesto and spinach and cheese and made pasta for dinner. so lovely.)

thats alot of places in one week if you ask me. i'm trying to think of the rest of my trip as a "vacation" since i have been a miser of sorts this semester when it comes to spending money. i'd say all is well.

i went to the namibian police department in search of a tshirt to buy my dad. i accidentally ended up in the area with the holding cells. awkward.

friday night we had a tshirt tiedying-decorating extravaganza. it was so much fun, the tie-dye turned out really well and everyone made awesome namibia-themed tshirts, tank tops, shorts, pants, underwear, the options were limitless!

in other news, i went to the UN building this week to meet with a woman concerning aids and aids development. i think it would be sweet to work for the un. we also went to USAID and met with an american who has been working overseas for the last 16 years. i really appreciate being exposed to americans overseas, but i also get really frustrated. most of these women are very successful and have enjoyed living and working abroad, something i would love todo, but it seems to be at the expense of having a family. i think i'd rather have a family.

i straight up fell when i was running this week, tripped over some uneven pavement, damnitt. of course it would be at an intersection. don't you worry though, i was a tough girl and am broken-bone free. mel the paramedic took good care of me.

the last week of classes is upon me. sigh. so bittersweet. i am at my last day of my internship and i am seriously joyful. i was practically skipping here. however, as i sat here and completed my project i realized what a good semester i've had at namibia housing action group, and how many cool people i have interacted with. it wasn't so bad afterall.

now i'm cranking out my last papers and brainstorming ideas for my final integrative project. as i'm thinking about all of the fun things i want to do when i get home, i'm beginning to realize how many other things come with the "back to reality," i.e. figuring out plans for next summer and post-college and finding a job in the spring and blahblah ughh i just want to play.

:)

Monday, November 10, 2008

what happened? valpo happened.

this past weekend was spent exploring various campgrounds in southern namibia and studying the different paths and "levels" of development.

friday night we stayed in a state run campground that was perched next to the second largest dam in namibia (its not a myth! there IS water in namibia!). we went exploring with ambitions to swim in the dam but it was pretty impossible to find a way down there - and the water was this awful murky brown color (reminded me of china.. hmmph). however, the trip was not in vain because we discovered these rabbit/rodent like animals that would scurry about every which way. they were pretty cute.

the valpo kids shared a tent, much to everyone else's disgust- hhaha. it actually wasn't so bad, outside of brett farting all night. we played mafia late into the night. the accomodations weren't so bad at all- we actually had campsites and bathroom facilities!

we drove further south on friday to bearsava (for the record, i just typed that word phonetically. i wouldn't google it.) we heard a few speakers concerning sustainable development and ecotourism. we also learned about community run campgrounds and later got to experience it!

southern namibia is home to a unique (and huge) rock formation - it is almost a dormant volcano, but not really- as in there is lava underneath the ground that pushed the land masses up and up. it created this crater in the middle of it that miraculously is covered in vegetation. friday night we stayed at the community run campsite we learned about earlier; it was located next to this mountain. the CRC was a very rustic experience- echos of the rural homestay (thankfully. i never get enough of peeing outside in the wilderness).

friday night my tent was the victim of an AWFUL late night prank. they unhooked all of the latches that kept our tent upheld. so here we are, sleepy eyed grumpy girls fixing our tent in the pitch black of the night, cursing the boys as they're giggling in the bushes. UGH. ugh boots.

saturday we woke up with the sun and hiked up that great beast of a mountain. we saw the valley and the very top! it was beautiful. we were literally surrounded by NOTHING. its strange how small and infinite someone can feel simultaneously.

later in the day we hung out with a local hiv/aids awareness student club. we were to teach them new ways to teach their community about aids. it was strange, mostly because i felt very ill-equipped to teach about aids knowing not nearly enough myself. the students were very receptive and eager to teach us things themselves. it was a lovely afternoon of sharing. the students sang for us and it was so emotional. i wish i could capture that feeling and explain it.

saturday night we stayed in a fancy resort-lodge (as you can see, our accomodations spanned the spectrum). it was a really super nice place, we had a delicious dinner over the fire and an even better conversation during it. recounting old tv shows never gets old, and sharing individual highs and lows is such a great way to grow closer as a group.

saturday night also marked our retaliation. as soon as the boys left to go to the bar, my tentmates and i completed dismantled theres, hid the poles that hold it up in our professor's tent, and kidnapped their sleeping bags and pillows. MWAHAHA.

and so the prank war began.

sunday morning we all lounged by the resort's pool in the hammocks and played in the water- we even choreographed a syncronized swimming show, which may or may not include jason twirling like a ballerina spitting water out of his mouth - i'll leave it up to your imagination :)

back in windhoek. 3 weeks. yikes.

Monday, November 3, 2008

real world: namibia

another week come and gone in this beautiful country. it was a fairly typical week for me- internship on monday and wednesday, class tuesday, thursday, and friday. up by 7 every morning to get a jog in. every meal consisting of pasta, potatoes, and homemade bread. many dirty dishes lying around the house, conversations about loving edward cullen, and competing for high scores on freerice.com. but there was one glorious difference...

RAIN!

and not just light rain. we had actual thunderstorms. in fact, i think i heard the loudest thunder of my life here. (that means God bowled a clutch strike!)

it was a good week overall, save for the many projects i had due. at the beginning of it, i was feeling very ready to come home and bummed about the month left in windhoek (these thoughts were probably influenced by my looming homework). but now i think it is going entirely too fast. help me!@ go away november.

this week had some wonderful highlights. on wednesday evening, most of the cge group volunteered at a charity fashion event for our friend taura, a local namibian who i have previously mentioned in my blog (think - biggest heart ever!) she, along with her sister, is opening an safehouse for OVC's (orphans and vulnerable children) in her hometown in northern Namibia. she is a very creative and crafty lady so she was holding this event to raise money for the cause by selling her handmade clothes, jewelery, bags, and recycled-wear.

many of the cge students were models. i helped with makeup- just like old times at merrillville high. :) others helped sell products, give out tickets, perform on stage, or manage the refreshments. it was definitely a team effort, and it was alot of fun, and hopefully a significant amount of funds were raised!

and then it was HALLOWEEN!! i of course put on my costume starting at 9 am for class. i decided to dress up as princess lolly from my favorite childhood board game, candyland. it wasn't a very good costume - but on the brightside, it was free, and simple. (i definitely drew inspirations from camp games this summer). i was really excited to see all of the cge students get into it and come in costume to our halloween party. we took pictures, danced around to thriller and the monster mash (and soldier boy), went trick or treating in all of our different rooms, bobbed for apples, and ate delicious (truly) pumpkin bread. it was so very much fun! my favorite costume of the night was probably tommy pickles or pregnant britney spears drinking wine. i also liked wolverine and michael phelps!

i never realized how much i loved halloween til i didn't really have it. i miss autumn!

saturday was a perfect day. i woke up early with rachel and we headed into town to visit the local outdoor markets and craft centers. i am trying to pick out gifts for family and friends - there is just so much to choose from! it was a fun and successful shopping trip though. we even bought matching namibia tshirts with animals on them :) i really love the craft center because it is an initiative to empower women of namibia to utilize their own resources for economic means - so with every product you buy, you also get a picture of the woman who made it, and the story behind her. very cool! it is a little more pricey this way, but i love to support the people.

later in the afternoon, about 6 other students from cge and i went to megameno, the orphanage that our intern volunteers at. we spent the afternoon playing soccer, climbing trees, holding hands, and listening to the kids' stories. it was a very fun but sad afternoon. there are over 40 children in this one orphanage, aged from 1-17. they are all in need of some love and attention, and its hard to give that to so many kids when you are one woman running the orphanage. i am definitely going to spend more time there before the semester is over.

saturday night we went out to eat at a local cameroonian restaurant, and ate traditional african meals out of wooden plates and bowls! it was a very cool experience. i had the kous kous - yum! afterwards, rachel and i decided to make sugar cookies from scratch for everyone. earlier in the week, we had discovered in a drawer cookie cutters in the shapes of hearts, stars, elephants, and hippos! so we had a baking extravaganza- complete with our new matching tshirts and the lion king soundtrack.

the cookies turned out fantastic and it was so fun making them. we even took a plate to the local backpacker's hostel we always go to for the guards, bartenders, and our friends who were hanging out there. it was so funny. we're so awkward.

5 weeks left! the final stretch continues. i can hardly believe it. i wish i was at home in the us for this upcoming week - 1. the elections are tomorrow 2. jennifer leigh halbert's 21st birthday is on FRIDAY 3. chi omega is probation free, finally 4. i want to meet my new dog, lilly!

i sincerely hope you all are having a fantastic day. :)

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

ALIVE!

thoughts on my urban homestay in katatura, a black "suburb" or windhoek.

Of all the things that I have learned about pre-colonial southern Africa and the European colonization of southern Africa, I am mostly impacted by the striking similarities to the United States’ history. The natives of southern Africa and the United States before the German and British colonization found common ground not only in the persecution each was subjected to. The natives of both nations seemed remarkably in tune with nature, and loved the land as a part of them, and not as an object. Each had a sense of community that is hard to come by in times today. It was not until after the British and the Germans came that everything began to change. In southern Africa, the Germans tricked the natives into signing treaties that only confounded their former ideas of their purpose in life – they were backed into smaller corners, forced to give up land, taken advantage of. What amazes me the most is that the Germans thought that it was okay to treat people like this. These people lived through the British subjugation of Native Americans. Did the thought ever cross the minds of the Germans that people should not be treated as second only to scum? That they are humans too?
During my time abroad, I have had multiple “aha” moments, particularly in my homestay, mostly from conversations with my older and younger brothers. Although a part of me would like to believe that race relations are improving in Namibia, I keep running into situations that challenge this belief. For instance, my first night at my homestay, my 10 year old brother Roberto asked me why I was white, and why I wanted to be around blacks. My 26 year old brother explained to me that he dislikes his job as a manager at a downtown sports apparel store because white people do not treat him well when they come shopping. My younger brother then again, after I invited him to come swimming at the center’s pool, asked me if it would be okay for him to be there since he is black.
Although there may be lingering realities to my older brother’s opposition, my little brother is still so young and impressionable. I feel like I did not even understand the idea of “race” at the age, especially as a means for judging others. There is obviously an overlying element of contempt between the peoples here, even though everything is portrayed as hunky dory post independence. Regardless that many of our readings contribute the separation of people today being strictly economic and that race segregation is an idea of the past, I am continually finding it difficult to believe. Walking through Kliptown, a township of Johannesburg plagued with poverty, truly opened my eyes to the realities of life for many blacks, even post apartheid and independence. From my general observations of the attitudes of real people and their perception of the opposite race, and their own race for that matter, it is hard to believe.
My stomach was tied into knots after seeing Alexandria and Standton in South Africa, especially in such close proximity. It is so easy for me to be in disbelief over the wealth gaps, and the fact that the wealthy of Standton do not feel called to help their poorer fellow citizens. But after careful consideration, I realized, I myself am guilty of ignoring my needful brothers and sisters. Who am I to point fingers when I am just as bad? These conflicting notions keep rattling my brain as I am exploring this beautiful country and learning from its children. Does my privilege lend itself to a responsibility to help others? Why was I born a wealthy white American? Should I feel guilty? Is it really my fault? All of these ideas I have been wrestling with, and although I am learning so much from the various speakers, events, and readings, I feel like the most important lesson I am going to learn is about myself.
I love the history of southern Africa because I feel like I am experiencing it as it happens, like it is alive. The countries of South Africa and Namibia are so young, and their futures have so much potential. It is easy for me, as an American, to sit back and say “Do not do it like this, it does not work. Do it this way. This is how we did it, and look at our admirable progress.” But I think the beauty of developing countries such as Namibia and South Africa is their ability to make their own history, to follow their own course, free of the influence of said “developed, proper” countries. I think the biggest healer for a lot of these country’s difficulties with race relations is time. It still stings those who experienced it first hand, and there is still hate cultivated among their children. It will take generations to heal the pain.

Sunday, October 26, 2008

fall break 2008: "i'll tell you when you're older"

friday night, me and 8 other hopefuls started our fall break adventure with a 20 hour bus ride to zambia. the bus was late, the men in the parking lot kept harassing us, and the local gas station was out of coke light. we should've known it was going to be a long trip!

we had to get out several times to step on a spongey-square soaked with chemicals or something, it supposedly helps stop the spread of foot and mouth disease, i didn't really know or understand?

we were about 200 km from our final destination, victoria falls, when.............. the bus flippin broke down. we sat in the zambian afternoon heat for 3 hours waiting for a new bus, which turned out to be entirely too small for the 30 some people getting dropped off in livingstone. womp womp.

but we made it!!!!! our hostel was awesome, it had an amazing pool+hot tub combo plus tons of giant, squishy pillows all over the place, perfect for a quick nap or a good read. that night we went out to dinner and i had HUMMUS, it was a lovely reunion, and reminded me of my everyday lunch at good ol' valpo. (it was so good i ended up going back to the same restaurant later in the week!)

sunday morning we woke up early and went white water rafting down the zambezi, the river that the falls fall into. it was INTENSE! the hike down alone was an adventure, climbing over jagged, slippery rocks on a steep incline. our rafts flipped in the rapids various times, and it was so much fun! we got to go swimming in the river, and it was a gorgeous deep jade color. our raft guide asked us to refer to him as babyface, so we decided to call ourselves team babyface usa - we were AWESOME. we had an entire day of rafting, rapids 1-24, including breakfast, lunch, dinner, and drinks. ;)

monday we did a walking tour of the falls. we were walking on rocks that are normally completely covered in water during rainy season. we got to look over the edge into the gorge - yikes, a long way down! we even got to swim in the water, and jump into the "devil's swimming pool" -- a natural pool right at the edge of the falls. we literally jumped in, 5 feet from the edge, cannonball style. when our guide first did it, i'm pretty sure we all freaked out and thought the next time we were going to see him was when he was going over the falls. we got to hang over the edge of the falls, and it was incredible. i even did it upside down which actually made my heart skip a beat out of fright! it was SO COOL.

monday evening we went on a sunset cruise on the zambezi, and it was beautiful. i had my first hippo sighting!! (seriously happiest moment possibly of my life). hippos have always been my favorite animal, i even wrote a story about them in 8th grade with two of my best friends. we met a lot of really interesting people on the boat, people who decided to take years off of work and just explore and travel the world. I WANT THIS LIFE. we even had our white water rafting guides on the cruise with us, they were like our friends for the week :) i also decided that aussies are seriously the coolest people in the world, and pledged to visit there asap.

tuesday we ventured into BOTSWANA. we had to ride a ferry in, and it was at the cool junction where namibia, zambia, zimbabwe, and botswana met. it reminded me of the 4 corners in the us of a. anywho, in botswana, we went to chobe national game park. we got to do a traditional safari in a range rover, it was definitely way cooler than driving around in our cge combies all day. we saw a TON OF ELEPHANTS, really close too. there were over 30,000 in the park alone! they were splashing in the water and swimming. we even saw a dead one- and it smelled FUNKY. that doesn't even do it justice (mom- it reminded me of the time our garage freezer broke and the turkey in it went bad, and we tried cleaning it out by tying long socks over our faces. HAHA).

we then got to go on a river safari, which totally made the trip worth it. i was literally less than 10 feet from elephants! AND MORE HIPPOS! it was a joyous occasion. the chobe is really beautiful, and actually green, which was a nice change from dry etosha.

wednesday morning we woke up early and traveled to the zimbabwe side of the falls. i really enjoyed the zimbabwean side because you could actually see the falls, where as on the zambia side you can really only hang off of them. :) there were so many rainbows and lots of mist, it almost felt like rain! and it looked like a rainforest, lots of exotic looking plants and flowers. so beautiful!

we caught a bus at noon and made it back to windhoek at 8 am on thursday morning. it was so good to be back in windhoek after such a long 3 weeks. it felt like home. :)

the rest of my fall break has been spent watching sex and the city on dvd, reading book 3 of the twilight saga, facebooking hardXcore, playing freecell, and .... doing homework. :) kind of. :) it rained for the first time yesterday and all of us were playing outside, and then jumped in the pool! it reminded me so much of "lemmings to the sea!" at camp pendalouan (but what doesn't bring me back to those sweet summer days on big blue?) i went and saw a movie for the first time in theaters since i've been here, and of course i wouldn't waste such a momentous occasion on anything but HIGH SCHOOL MUSICAL 3. it was amazing, they had salt&vinegar toppings for the popcorn, and i couldn't be more convinced that zac efron needs to be in my arms.

and now i'm on to the final stretch, only 5 weeks left in namibia and 6 til i set foot in good old o'hare once again. i can definitely not deny my homesickness any longer, i cannot wait to see my family, my new dog, my friends, my wife, my boo, the christopher center, chipotle, el charro, etc. i'm hoping in these next few weeks i can slow down a bit, make the moments last forever, dance in the sweet african rain, embrace the warmth of the sun... and hopefully not get too stressed out over projects and homework. :)