Friday, November 28, 2008

windhoeked.

Tomorrow is the day of departure. I can't believe how quickly my time in Windhoek has flown by. I have been here for 3 and half months but, at times, it feels like moments. We'll be spending a week in Cape Town and then its back to the northern hemisphere. It all became a little more real when I realized the next time I talk to my mom it will be in person, in O'hare, in the States. Although I am looking forward to coming home, I am still terribly sad about leaving Namibia and the family I have found here.



Yesterday we celebrated Thanksgiving by cooking the meal for our staff as an appreciation dinner. The meal was incredible since everyone made their favorite dish from home. It was quite on experience to have 24 cooks in one kitchen! Thanksgiving was also a little bizarre because of how hot it was! Its summer here and the flowers, trees, and bushes are in full bloom. No crappy rain? What? Besides eating my face off for most of the day, I was able to visit my urban homestay family in Katutura one last time. It was wonderful to see them again- and the dogs had puppies!



The day was pretty perfect and reiterated how much I have come to love the people I have spent these past few months with. These people have helped me grow and learn in unfathomable ways. Although all of our experiences have shaped me into the person I am today, it was certainly the different perspectives of all of the passionate and unique individuals in the program that helped me make sense of the "big picture," and encouraged me to rise above the college student stereotypes and do something positive for the world with my life.



Back in August, I came to Namibia not knowing what to expect. Being a Chinese major and certified Chinese culture lover, I knew very little about the history and politics of Africa, let alone in Namibia specifically. I had done a bit of research prior but nothing could have prepared me. Namibia is a truly gorgeous country and it is filled with incredible and lively people. However, it is facing serious challenges.



The World Bank and IMF have declared Namibia a "middle income country" and with that declaration a lot of aid is leaving Namibia. However the GNI, which determines income level, does not take into account that Namibia has the highest income inequality in the world. The rich are monster rich while 40% of the people can not meet their basic needs every month. The poverty and the wealth stagger you equally.



Development is slow and politics has become a dirty word. The ruling party, SWAPO, has complete control over the country. There is no clear or strong opposition party and the people are very concerned about this. However, SWAPO was Namibia's liberator and the people vote based on history and not issues. It is the failure to address issues that will cripple this fragile democracy. Namibia needs a strong opposition party to ensure issues are addressed.



The history of Namibia is violent and holds heavy chains in the ideologies of people today. The people were oppressed for over a century and Namibia is just beginning to recover from Apartheid. Namibia has a weak civil society, with its citizens being severely uneducated about their rights. However, the hope and intelligence is present to ensure its triumph as a nation. The country is only 18 years old and has done well for its self since Independence.



Today, I walked through downtown Windhoek for the last time and, as always, forgot I was in Africa. It is a beautiful city with all the modern conveniences. But, 10 minutes outside the city center people live in tin shacks and scramble for water. As easy as it is for me to accuse this of being a problem solely in Africa, it would be ignorant of me to ignore the realities of similar living styles in my own country.



If I have learned anything this semester it is that nothing is simple. Development and democracy are complex issues that can not be prescribed but have to be experimented with and studied from every angle.



Namibia has changed me in ways I can not even begin to describe. I have seen what poverty and complete destitution looks like. I have seen children suffering and dying from HIV/AIDS. I witnessed democracy in action. I have seen communities striving to do better, with what little they have. I have seen people working tirelessly to protect their democracy and their way of life. I have seen people find hope in the face of despair and to live off of nothing. I have been in awe of the spirit of this nation. The philosophy of ubuntu (I am because you are) resonates in every aspect of daily life. People matter here. Perhaps that is the greatest lesson I have learned: the importance of the individual and relationships you cultivate with them.


A speaker from earlier on this semester told us that "Each time you travel, you leave a little bit of your heart everywhere you go." I am beginning to wonder how many more places I can give my heart to. Maybe I'll just have to come back?

Sunday, November 23, 2008

a weema whop a weema whop

my last sunday in windhoek. and so the final week begins!

last week, a friend of one of the students who lives in johannesburg came to visit us for a week. his name was rezaan and he was awesome, very lively and brought alot of fun to the group. it worked nicely with all of our classes coming to an end and not too much homework to finish it off. we did alot of fun tourist-y things :) some went to the local brewery and to dinner in the "central park" of windhoek, zoo park. my favorite of all was paintballing -- i haven't played since camp eons ago and it definitely showed. i sucked. but i did hit rezaan once and brett once, and i did get hit plenty of times including on my mouth which was awesome and not painful at all. :)

we went to a craft market known as "penduka" that works with women who have tuberculosis and gives them a source of work and income. they made really beautiful crafts, lots of tapestries and recycled jewelery. i bought some beads that were made of old windhoek lager bottles. i am excited to make some of my own bracelets and earrings with them.

me and some friends went on an adventure to find this restaurant called "fresh and wild." we kept thinking we were lost on the way there because it was in a part of windhoek we were unfamiliar with and it was quite a hike. it all worked out though :) and lunch was positively deliciousss!!

we also went karaoking on thursday night at a bar called "dylans." i was excited to see some old faces from the night life around windhoek there again- it was like fate, but better! having native namibian friends (even if they're afrikaaner) is definitely a bonus. it makes it even harder to leave though. i went out with these friends on saturday night, we got milkshakes and had a bonfire in klein. their houses are SO BIG. with grass and lots of trophies from past hunting trips (including a wildebeest, which naturally i scoffed at. you killed mufasa you jerks).

friday night we went to a rastafarian party at the college of arts. it was such a unique and cool experience! i've never really hung out with rastas before but i definitely have a better appreciation of their culture now, and i'm hoping to look more into it because their life and love philosophies seem right on cue.

we of course have eaten at the blue olive again and have gone to the farmers market and single quarters in katutura- me and rachel and cameron are trying to do research for our final project, which highlights the idea of "home" and what it means to people in windhoek. its been very interesting and hilarious, i particularly loved moses who said he would hire me to work for his electrition company and randy the security guard at the box.

i think i want to get my hair braided this week.

mom i got my nose pierced i'm sorry.

i finally finished most of my shopping!

6 days til cape town, 15 til chi-town.

Monday, November 17, 2008

you can't just go around asking people why they're white

another fantastic week around these parts. considering i only have a few more precious weeks here in namibia, i have been going out to different places as much as i can in the hopes of squeezing in as much of windhoek as i can.

1. sushi and such (i need to go to japan)
2. wine bar (i'm not sure why i think i'll like wine every time i try it. however, the place was so romantic, with an outdoor terrace looking out over windhoek. low lighting and comfy seating. and the cheese platter = delicious)
3. the blue olive (hummus and organic and free range and fresh and awesome. went there twice in one week. the second time i ate a cookie in the shape of an owl. oh and a slice of cheesecake, one that we initially bought for a friend... but after waiting for the bill and staring at it, we all decided to grab our forks and dive in).
4. joe's beerhouse (rounds 2 and 3. a "tourist must." i like it because i consistently get free drinks. hehehe.)
5. the biomarket/farmers market (i LOVE farmers markets, and this one was no different- save for it was in a very german part of town and pretty much everyone there was white. we bought fresh pesto and spinach and cheese and made pasta for dinner. so lovely.)

thats alot of places in one week if you ask me. i'm trying to think of the rest of my trip as a "vacation" since i have been a miser of sorts this semester when it comes to spending money. i'd say all is well.

i went to the namibian police department in search of a tshirt to buy my dad. i accidentally ended up in the area with the holding cells. awkward.

friday night we had a tshirt tiedying-decorating extravaganza. it was so much fun, the tie-dye turned out really well and everyone made awesome namibia-themed tshirts, tank tops, shorts, pants, underwear, the options were limitless!

in other news, i went to the UN building this week to meet with a woman concerning aids and aids development. i think it would be sweet to work for the un. we also went to USAID and met with an american who has been working overseas for the last 16 years. i really appreciate being exposed to americans overseas, but i also get really frustrated. most of these women are very successful and have enjoyed living and working abroad, something i would love todo, but it seems to be at the expense of having a family. i think i'd rather have a family.

i straight up fell when i was running this week, tripped over some uneven pavement, damnitt. of course it would be at an intersection. don't you worry though, i was a tough girl and am broken-bone free. mel the paramedic took good care of me.

the last week of classes is upon me. sigh. so bittersweet. i am at my last day of my internship and i am seriously joyful. i was practically skipping here. however, as i sat here and completed my project i realized what a good semester i've had at namibia housing action group, and how many cool people i have interacted with. it wasn't so bad afterall.

now i'm cranking out my last papers and brainstorming ideas for my final integrative project. as i'm thinking about all of the fun things i want to do when i get home, i'm beginning to realize how many other things come with the "back to reality," i.e. figuring out plans for next summer and post-college and finding a job in the spring and blahblah ughh i just want to play.

:)

Monday, November 10, 2008

what happened? valpo happened.

this past weekend was spent exploring various campgrounds in southern namibia and studying the different paths and "levels" of development.

friday night we stayed in a state run campground that was perched next to the second largest dam in namibia (its not a myth! there IS water in namibia!). we went exploring with ambitions to swim in the dam but it was pretty impossible to find a way down there - and the water was this awful murky brown color (reminded me of china.. hmmph). however, the trip was not in vain because we discovered these rabbit/rodent like animals that would scurry about every which way. they were pretty cute.

the valpo kids shared a tent, much to everyone else's disgust- hhaha. it actually wasn't so bad, outside of brett farting all night. we played mafia late into the night. the accomodations weren't so bad at all- we actually had campsites and bathroom facilities!

we drove further south on friday to bearsava (for the record, i just typed that word phonetically. i wouldn't google it.) we heard a few speakers concerning sustainable development and ecotourism. we also learned about community run campgrounds and later got to experience it!

southern namibia is home to a unique (and huge) rock formation - it is almost a dormant volcano, but not really- as in there is lava underneath the ground that pushed the land masses up and up. it created this crater in the middle of it that miraculously is covered in vegetation. friday night we stayed at the community run campsite we learned about earlier; it was located next to this mountain. the CRC was a very rustic experience- echos of the rural homestay (thankfully. i never get enough of peeing outside in the wilderness).

friday night my tent was the victim of an AWFUL late night prank. they unhooked all of the latches that kept our tent upheld. so here we are, sleepy eyed grumpy girls fixing our tent in the pitch black of the night, cursing the boys as they're giggling in the bushes. UGH. ugh boots.

saturday we woke up with the sun and hiked up that great beast of a mountain. we saw the valley and the very top! it was beautiful. we were literally surrounded by NOTHING. its strange how small and infinite someone can feel simultaneously.

later in the day we hung out with a local hiv/aids awareness student club. we were to teach them new ways to teach their community about aids. it was strange, mostly because i felt very ill-equipped to teach about aids knowing not nearly enough myself. the students were very receptive and eager to teach us things themselves. it was a lovely afternoon of sharing. the students sang for us and it was so emotional. i wish i could capture that feeling and explain it.

saturday night we stayed in a fancy resort-lodge (as you can see, our accomodations spanned the spectrum). it was a really super nice place, we had a delicious dinner over the fire and an even better conversation during it. recounting old tv shows never gets old, and sharing individual highs and lows is such a great way to grow closer as a group.

saturday night also marked our retaliation. as soon as the boys left to go to the bar, my tentmates and i completed dismantled theres, hid the poles that hold it up in our professor's tent, and kidnapped their sleeping bags and pillows. MWAHAHA.

and so the prank war began.

sunday morning we all lounged by the resort's pool in the hammocks and played in the water- we even choreographed a syncronized swimming show, which may or may not include jason twirling like a ballerina spitting water out of his mouth - i'll leave it up to your imagination :)

back in windhoek. 3 weeks. yikes.

Monday, November 3, 2008

real world: namibia

another week come and gone in this beautiful country. it was a fairly typical week for me- internship on monday and wednesday, class tuesday, thursday, and friday. up by 7 every morning to get a jog in. every meal consisting of pasta, potatoes, and homemade bread. many dirty dishes lying around the house, conversations about loving edward cullen, and competing for high scores on freerice.com. but there was one glorious difference...

RAIN!

and not just light rain. we had actual thunderstorms. in fact, i think i heard the loudest thunder of my life here. (that means God bowled a clutch strike!)

it was a good week overall, save for the many projects i had due. at the beginning of it, i was feeling very ready to come home and bummed about the month left in windhoek (these thoughts were probably influenced by my looming homework). but now i think it is going entirely too fast. help me!@ go away november.

this week had some wonderful highlights. on wednesday evening, most of the cge group volunteered at a charity fashion event for our friend taura, a local namibian who i have previously mentioned in my blog (think - biggest heart ever!) she, along with her sister, is opening an safehouse for OVC's (orphans and vulnerable children) in her hometown in northern Namibia. she is a very creative and crafty lady so she was holding this event to raise money for the cause by selling her handmade clothes, jewelery, bags, and recycled-wear.

many of the cge students were models. i helped with makeup- just like old times at merrillville high. :) others helped sell products, give out tickets, perform on stage, or manage the refreshments. it was definitely a team effort, and it was alot of fun, and hopefully a significant amount of funds were raised!

and then it was HALLOWEEN!! i of course put on my costume starting at 9 am for class. i decided to dress up as princess lolly from my favorite childhood board game, candyland. it wasn't a very good costume - but on the brightside, it was free, and simple. (i definitely drew inspirations from camp games this summer). i was really excited to see all of the cge students get into it and come in costume to our halloween party. we took pictures, danced around to thriller and the monster mash (and soldier boy), went trick or treating in all of our different rooms, bobbed for apples, and ate delicious (truly) pumpkin bread. it was so very much fun! my favorite costume of the night was probably tommy pickles or pregnant britney spears drinking wine. i also liked wolverine and michael phelps!

i never realized how much i loved halloween til i didn't really have it. i miss autumn!

saturday was a perfect day. i woke up early with rachel and we headed into town to visit the local outdoor markets and craft centers. i am trying to pick out gifts for family and friends - there is just so much to choose from! it was a fun and successful shopping trip though. we even bought matching namibia tshirts with animals on them :) i really love the craft center because it is an initiative to empower women of namibia to utilize their own resources for economic means - so with every product you buy, you also get a picture of the woman who made it, and the story behind her. very cool! it is a little more pricey this way, but i love to support the people.

later in the afternoon, about 6 other students from cge and i went to megameno, the orphanage that our intern volunteers at. we spent the afternoon playing soccer, climbing trees, holding hands, and listening to the kids' stories. it was a very fun but sad afternoon. there are over 40 children in this one orphanage, aged from 1-17. they are all in need of some love and attention, and its hard to give that to so many kids when you are one woman running the orphanage. i am definitely going to spend more time there before the semester is over.

saturday night we went out to eat at a local cameroonian restaurant, and ate traditional african meals out of wooden plates and bowls! it was a very cool experience. i had the kous kous - yum! afterwards, rachel and i decided to make sugar cookies from scratch for everyone. earlier in the week, we had discovered in a drawer cookie cutters in the shapes of hearts, stars, elephants, and hippos! so we had a baking extravaganza- complete with our new matching tshirts and the lion king soundtrack.

the cookies turned out fantastic and it was so fun making them. we even took a plate to the local backpacker's hostel we always go to for the guards, bartenders, and our friends who were hanging out there. it was so funny. we're so awkward.

5 weeks left! the final stretch continues. i can hardly believe it. i wish i was at home in the us for this upcoming week - 1. the elections are tomorrow 2. jennifer leigh halbert's 21st birthday is on FRIDAY 3. chi omega is probation free, finally 4. i want to meet my new dog, lilly!

i sincerely hope you all are having a fantastic day. :)