Tuesday, December 23, 2008

no place like home for the holidays

the hustle and bustle of this time of year is unlike any other. 

"home." before coming back to the states, we had a program in namibia about re-assimilating to home, and the fact that we will actually be "temporarily homeless."

i honestly feel like my time in africa was a dream, that i've been in some sort of unconscious state for the last few months and imagined it all. maybe its because nothing at home has changed, or maybe its because i'm realizing i haven't changed.

i feel very overwhelmed by all the busy-ness that is going on at home, but at the same time, i do not want to be left alone with my thoughts.

it is a struggle.

i do not mind letting the holiday fervor consume me, it is easier for me to pretend like i never saw any of the things that i did. but how awful does that sound? that is exactly what i can't do- i can't keep quiet, i can't sit back and act like nothing happened. i have to make the voices of very real people very far away from me heard. i wish i could articulate my brain.

happy holidays everyone.

quite the flight.

the flight home was a disaster. cape town to jo'burg went relatively smooth, save for getting dropped off by our perhaps 'too eager to get rid of us' professors 3 hours early. i was knitting up a storm for those 2 hours, determined to finish the scarf i was working on before i came home. all of my dreams were quickly shattered in jo'burg when the customs peeps wouldn't let me take my knitting needles on to the plane. cue tears. it was a long day. 

regardless we got on the plane at 7 for our 7:27 flight, we didn't actually take off until 930. 930! and the movie watcher device things weren't even working. some shennanigans went down with the luggage computer system, and all bags had to be done manually. i just hoped the extra time would mean they were making extra sure all of the bags were there.

but it was not so.

21 hours in a stuffy plane, 3 hours late into JFK, already missed my connecting flight to DC, come to find out my luggage has been left to the dregs of south africa. not only mine, but about 30 other people on the flight, including (but not limited to) EVERYONE in my program.

filing for lost luggage and working out a new flight schedule was much of a fiasco. i was not afforded the fun of saying proper goodbyes to all of my beloved friends. :(

9:30am "Hey dad! Its meg. I landed in JFK. Our flights are messed up so I might be home later."
"Are you staying the night in JFK then?"
"What? No. I'll be home before dinner."
"Oh, we weren't planning on going to the airport til tomorrow. Call your mother."

Picture it- Meg chilling in OHare, so excited to see familiar faces, holding her bags and fighting back tears at their absence. Okay who am I kidding, the tears would have been flowing.

9:35 am
"Hi, is June Lee there?"
"Hold please."  
-- Winter Wonderland begins playing on hold line --
-- Megan gets giddy for Christmas --

11:15 "ma'am, we have a direct flight from here to o'hare. are you interested?"
"what time?"
"12."
"shit."
"just run to terminal 2. here's your flimsy fake looking boarding pass."

:: Meg is stereotypical crazy person with bags flailing and not nearly enough coats on for the seemingly arctic tundra that is NYC ::

To top it off, I was randomly selected for a more in depth security search at customs. After removing all removable without being inappropriate clothes on my body, I successfully passed the inspection. I had time to make a quick call to June and grab a starbucks cinnamon dolce latte, a sweet sweet reunion.

2:30 rolls around and Air Force 1 makes headway into the windy city. I was so excited to see the beaches of lake michigan, then realized they were so pretty because it was actually snow and not sand. Snow! BRR!

It was a happy day to see all of the people I love most in my life- Dad, Mom, Danny, Carla. Jenny and Cameron. Even though I was sans luggage, I was surplus happy.

Literally- nothing has changed in Merrillville, Indiana. (save for the panda express off broadway)

Saturday, December 13, 2008

cape tizzy

cape town was absolutely gorgeous, with the brightest palette of greens and blues and a mix of faces to match. as much as it was talked up by professor's as another travel seminar, it certainly was just the opposite. on the first day, we "learned a whole bunch" by traveling to the cape of good hope, where its said the waters of the indian ocean and the atlantic meet. i could not believe how blue the water was, it was a shade i had prior only seen in pictures (and this was way better!) i of course could not wait to get my paws in the water. lets just say i have now been pantless in the indian and atlantic. any takers for round 3?

as if the cape adventures weren't enough (new york city 8000 miles and run ins with savvy / hungry baboons) we were able to have our first penguin sightings. they really are quite darling and i am pretty sure i took a more than necessary amount of pictures. i really felt like a tourist.

monday was a museum hopping day, we visited a slave lodge from way into yesteryear and learned alot about district six during apartheid. the slave lodge hit close to home because it is very likely americans in colonial times were trafficking people who lived in the very walls i was standing. i was very frustrated to learn of a neighborhood that peacefully housed people of many different cultures (not including whites of course) that was later taken over by said whites to establish a more separatist living society. hence district 6. nothing has been built on this area since the day they demolished it. it is interesting to compare the apartheid struggle in south africa to namibia's; south africa's not only affected blacks and coloureds (mixed) but also indians and the jewish population.

monday was liberation day/ world aids day - it was a very unique experience being in a country that is so intertwined with aids that it is nearly inescapable. it suddenly became a reality that many of the people i pass on the streets definitely know someone who is afflicted if they are not afflicted themselves. we participated in aids awareness promotion activities like getting tested (i'm negative, whew) and an aids day march.

tuesday was an amazing day - we took a ferry to visit robben island, a place that political enemies were sent during the apartheid days. we had heard men speak of their experiences there back in johannesburg week 1, and to finally see it in person was good closure. we even saw nelson mandela's jail cell. the island was alot bigger than i thought it would be (i was thinking alcatraz or azkaban style) but on the flipside, it was just far enough from the land that you could never survive a swim but close enough to wear you could still see it - normal life going on. it must have been torture! the ferry ride back was nice and jerky and made us all a bit green in the face, but i just love being on the sea. we ate a meal of fish and chips at a standard/ sketchy fish bar just off the shore. it was perfect. and so delicious.

on wednesday we ventured into the settlements and visited a self-help weaving project called "philani." we were able to meet with the women who created such beautiful tapestries and weaveries and they were so delightful, singing as they worked and showing us their toothless grins (its a cultural thing, strange i know). we also ate lunch at a bed and breakfast created by a woman who was formerly impoverished who decided to do something about it. very cool! (and delicious)

because we had had a lack of exposure to GLBT issues in africa we visited an initiative called the "triangle project" on wednesday. it is interesting to note that south africa is the only country in the whole of the continent that legalized same sex marriage. regardless, it is frowned upon culturally and people who identify as GLBT's are oftentimes subject to cruel harassment. later, my friends and i went to the beach. it was salty and sandy and wonderful. i even think i saw a shark :) i could not get enough of the big waves (even though they were nearly freezing!)

thursday was the most academic-focused day. :) and by that, i mean, we went to a winery in the north of cape town to taste test wines and enjoy the beautiful countrysides. i have never tried wine tasting before (probably because i am not a big fan of wine..) but it was really fun. it was neat to see the brewery and the vines and the grapes and the like. i of course felt the need to buy 3 bottles. thanks africa.

on our last school day we went to an aids day awareness function, complete with music and dancers and testimonies and tears and hand holding and red ribbons. we walked through the streets of manenberg awkwardly (per usual) and enjoyed the company of south africans. that night we had our last group dinner at "mama africa" and toasted to a semester of times- not always good but certainly not always bad. a semester of experiences that we will carry with us permanently. and then we did some traditional african dancing with the band (my shimmy-ing was no where near up to par).

the final full day in africa was a free day for students. a few of my friends and i decided to scale the infamous table mountain in the center of cape town. let me tell you - it was TOUGH. 1 hour into it and not even halfway up the mountain i was regretting my decision to not take the cable car up. but alas, God is good, He gave us strength and we eventually made it. and what an incredible feeling that was- complete with an incredible view!

another cape town bonus was the easing into "culture shock" for the states. cape town was very developed and very internationalized; we ate food from a different culture every night! indian, mediterranean, mexican, milk shakes, you name it- we ate it. almost every night we hung out at an irish pub called "dubliners" - it was a blast. free dancing, free live rock music, and oftentimes free drinks. ;)

it really felt like a vacation.

updates on my first week home to come soon. for the record, its good to be back.

Friday, November 28, 2008

windhoeked.

Tomorrow is the day of departure. I can't believe how quickly my time in Windhoek has flown by. I have been here for 3 and half months but, at times, it feels like moments. We'll be spending a week in Cape Town and then its back to the northern hemisphere. It all became a little more real when I realized the next time I talk to my mom it will be in person, in O'hare, in the States. Although I am looking forward to coming home, I am still terribly sad about leaving Namibia and the family I have found here.



Yesterday we celebrated Thanksgiving by cooking the meal for our staff as an appreciation dinner. The meal was incredible since everyone made their favorite dish from home. It was quite on experience to have 24 cooks in one kitchen! Thanksgiving was also a little bizarre because of how hot it was! Its summer here and the flowers, trees, and bushes are in full bloom. No crappy rain? What? Besides eating my face off for most of the day, I was able to visit my urban homestay family in Katutura one last time. It was wonderful to see them again- and the dogs had puppies!



The day was pretty perfect and reiterated how much I have come to love the people I have spent these past few months with. These people have helped me grow and learn in unfathomable ways. Although all of our experiences have shaped me into the person I am today, it was certainly the different perspectives of all of the passionate and unique individuals in the program that helped me make sense of the "big picture," and encouraged me to rise above the college student stereotypes and do something positive for the world with my life.



Back in August, I came to Namibia not knowing what to expect. Being a Chinese major and certified Chinese culture lover, I knew very little about the history and politics of Africa, let alone in Namibia specifically. I had done a bit of research prior but nothing could have prepared me. Namibia is a truly gorgeous country and it is filled with incredible and lively people. However, it is facing serious challenges.



The World Bank and IMF have declared Namibia a "middle income country" and with that declaration a lot of aid is leaving Namibia. However the GNI, which determines income level, does not take into account that Namibia has the highest income inequality in the world. The rich are monster rich while 40% of the people can not meet their basic needs every month. The poverty and the wealth stagger you equally.



Development is slow and politics has become a dirty word. The ruling party, SWAPO, has complete control over the country. There is no clear or strong opposition party and the people are very concerned about this. However, SWAPO was Namibia's liberator and the people vote based on history and not issues. It is the failure to address issues that will cripple this fragile democracy. Namibia needs a strong opposition party to ensure issues are addressed.



The history of Namibia is violent and holds heavy chains in the ideologies of people today. The people were oppressed for over a century and Namibia is just beginning to recover from Apartheid. Namibia has a weak civil society, with its citizens being severely uneducated about their rights. However, the hope and intelligence is present to ensure its triumph as a nation. The country is only 18 years old and has done well for its self since Independence.



Today, I walked through downtown Windhoek for the last time and, as always, forgot I was in Africa. It is a beautiful city with all the modern conveniences. But, 10 minutes outside the city center people live in tin shacks and scramble for water. As easy as it is for me to accuse this of being a problem solely in Africa, it would be ignorant of me to ignore the realities of similar living styles in my own country.



If I have learned anything this semester it is that nothing is simple. Development and democracy are complex issues that can not be prescribed but have to be experimented with and studied from every angle.



Namibia has changed me in ways I can not even begin to describe. I have seen what poverty and complete destitution looks like. I have seen children suffering and dying from HIV/AIDS. I witnessed democracy in action. I have seen communities striving to do better, with what little they have. I have seen people working tirelessly to protect their democracy and their way of life. I have seen people find hope in the face of despair and to live off of nothing. I have been in awe of the spirit of this nation. The philosophy of ubuntu (I am because you are) resonates in every aspect of daily life. People matter here. Perhaps that is the greatest lesson I have learned: the importance of the individual and relationships you cultivate with them.


A speaker from earlier on this semester told us that "Each time you travel, you leave a little bit of your heart everywhere you go." I am beginning to wonder how many more places I can give my heart to. Maybe I'll just have to come back?

Sunday, November 23, 2008

a weema whop a weema whop

my last sunday in windhoek. and so the final week begins!

last week, a friend of one of the students who lives in johannesburg came to visit us for a week. his name was rezaan and he was awesome, very lively and brought alot of fun to the group. it worked nicely with all of our classes coming to an end and not too much homework to finish it off. we did alot of fun tourist-y things :) some went to the local brewery and to dinner in the "central park" of windhoek, zoo park. my favorite of all was paintballing -- i haven't played since camp eons ago and it definitely showed. i sucked. but i did hit rezaan once and brett once, and i did get hit plenty of times including on my mouth which was awesome and not painful at all. :)

we went to a craft market known as "penduka" that works with women who have tuberculosis and gives them a source of work and income. they made really beautiful crafts, lots of tapestries and recycled jewelery. i bought some beads that were made of old windhoek lager bottles. i am excited to make some of my own bracelets and earrings with them.

me and some friends went on an adventure to find this restaurant called "fresh and wild." we kept thinking we were lost on the way there because it was in a part of windhoek we were unfamiliar with and it was quite a hike. it all worked out though :) and lunch was positively deliciousss!!

we also went karaoking on thursday night at a bar called "dylans." i was excited to see some old faces from the night life around windhoek there again- it was like fate, but better! having native namibian friends (even if they're afrikaaner) is definitely a bonus. it makes it even harder to leave though. i went out with these friends on saturday night, we got milkshakes and had a bonfire in klein. their houses are SO BIG. with grass and lots of trophies from past hunting trips (including a wildebeest, which naturally i scoffed at. you killed mufasa you jerks).

friday night we went to a rastafarian party at the college of arts. it was such a unique and cool experience! i've never really hung out with rastas before but i definitely have a better appreciation of their culture now, and i'm hoping to look more into it because their life and love philosophies seem right on cue.

we of course have eaten at the blue olive again and have gone to the farmers market and single quarters in katutura- me and rachel and cameron are trying to do research for our final project, which highlights the idea of "home" and what it means to people in windhoek. its been very interesting and hilarious, i particularly loved moses who said he would hire me to work for his electrition company and randy the security guard at the box.

i think i want to get my hair braided this week.

mom i got my nose pierced i'm sorry.

i finally finished most of my shopping!

6 days til cape town, 15 til chi-town.

Monday, November 17, 2008

you can't just go around asking people why they're white

another fantastic week around these parts. considering i only have a few more precious weeks here in namibia, i have been going out to different places as much as i can in the hopes of squeezing in as much of windhoek as i can.

1. sushi and such (i need to go to japan)
2. wine bar (i'm not sure why i think i'll like wine every time i try it. however, the place was so romantic, with an outdoor terrace looking out over windhoek. low lighting and comfy seating. and the cheese platter = delicious)
3. the blue olive (hummus and organic and free range and fresh and awesome. went there twice in one week. the second time i ate a cookie in the shape of an owl. oh and a slice of cheesecake, one that we initially bought for a friend... but after waiting for the bill and staring at it, we all decided to grab our forks and dive in).
4. joe's beerhouse (rounds 2 and 3. a "tourist must." i like it because i consistently get free drinks. hehehe.)
5. the biomarket/farmers market (i LOVE farmers markets, and this one was no different- save for it was in a very german part of town and pretty much everyone there was white. we bought fresh pesto and spinach and cheese and made pasta for dinner. so lovely.)

thats alot of places in one week if you ask me. i'm trying to think of the rest of my trip as a "vacation" since i have been a miser of sorts this semester when it comes to spending money. i'd say all is well.

i went to the namibian police department in search of a tshirt to buy my dad. i accidentally ended up in the area with the holding cells. awkward.

friday night we had a tshirt tiedying-decorating extravaganza. it was so much fun, the tie-dye turned out really well and everyone made awesome namibia-themed tshirts, tank tops, shorts, pants, underwear, the options were limitless!

in other news, i went to the UN building this week to meet with a woman concerning aids and aids development. i think it would be sweet to work for the un. we also went to USAID and met with an american who has been working overseas for the last 16 years. i really appreciate being exposed to americans overseas, but i also get really frustrated. most of these women are very successful and have enjoyed living and working abroad, something i would love todo, but it seems to be at the expense of having a family. i think i'd rather have a family.

i straight up fell when i was running this week, tripped over some uneven pavement, damnitt. of course it would be at an intersection. don't you worry though, i was a tough girl and am broken-bone free. mel the paramedic took good care of me.

the last week of classes is upon me. sigh. so bittersweet. i am at my last day of my internship and i am seriously joyful. i was practically skipping here. however, as i sat here and completed my project i realized what a good semester i've had at namibia housing action group, and how many cool people i have interacted with. it wasn't so bad afterall.

now i'm cranking out my last papers and brainstorming ideas for my final integrative project. as i'm thinking about all of the fun things i want to do when i get home, i'm beginning to realize how many other things come with the "back to reality," i.e. figuring out plans for next summer and post-college and finding a job in the spring and blahblah ughh i just want to play.

:)

Monday, November 10, 2008

what happened? valpo happened.

this past weekend was spent exploring various campgrounds in southern namibia and studying the different paths and "levels" of development.

friday night we stayed in a state run campground that was perched next to the second largest dam in namibia (its not a myth! there IS water in namibia!). we went exploring with ambitions to swim in the dam but it was pretty impossible to find a way down there - and the water was this awful murky brown color (reminded me of china.. hmmph). however, the trip was not in vain because we discovered these rabbit/rodent like animals that would scurry about every which way. they were pretty cute.

the valpo kids shared a tent, much to everyone else's disgust- hhaha. it actually wasn't so bad, outside of brett farting all night. we played mafia late into the night. the accomodations weren't so bad at all- we actually had campsites and bathroom facilities!

we drove further south on friday to bearsava (for the record, i just typed that word phonetically. i wouldn't google it.) we heard a few speakers concerning sustainable development and ecotourism. we also learned about community run campgrounds and later got to experience it!

southern namibia is home to a unique (and huge) rock formation - it is almost a dormant volcano, but not really- as in there is lava underneath the ground that pushed the land masses up and up. it created this crater in the middle of it that miraculously is covered in vegetation. friday night we stayed at the community run campsite we learned about earlier; it was located next to this mountain. the CRC was a very rustic experience- echos of the rural homestay (thankfully. i never get enough of peeing outside in the wilderness).

friday night my tent was the victim of an AWFUL late night prank. they unhooked all of the latches that kept our tent upheld. so here we are, sleepy eyed grumpy girls fixing our tent in the pitch black of the night, cursing the boys as they're giggling in the bushes. UGH. ugh boots.

saturday we woke up with the sun and hiked up that great beast of a mountain. we saw the valley and the very top! it was beautiful. we were literally surrounded by NOTHING. its strange how small and infinite someone can feel simultaneously.

later in the day we hung out with a local hiv/aids awareness student club. we were to teach them new ways to teach their community about aids. it was strange, mostly because i felt very ill-equipped to teach about aids knowing not nearly enough myself. the students were very receptive and eager to teach us things themselves. it was a lovely afternoon of sharing. the students sang for us and it was so emotional. i wish i could capture that feeling and explain it.

saturday night we stayed in a fancy resort-lodge (as you can see, our accomodations spanned the spectrum). it was a really super nice place, we had a delicious dinner over the fire and an even better conversation during it. recounting old tv shows never gets old, and sharing individual highs and lows is such a great way to grow closer as a group.

saturday night also marked our retaliation. as soon as the boys left to go to the bar, my tentmates and i completed dismantled theres, hid the poles that hold it up in our professor's tent, and kidnapped their sleeping bags and pillows. MWAHAHA.

and so the prank war began.

sunday morning we all lounged by the resort's pool in the hammocks and played in the water- we even choreographed a syncronized swimming show, which may or may not include jason twirling like a ballerina spitting water out of his mouth - i'll leave it up to your imagination :)

back in windhoek. 3 weeks. yikes.